Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel opened her first millinery shop in 1912 and rose to become one of the premier fashion designers in Paris, France.Replacing the corset with comfort and casual elegance, her fashion themes included simple suits and dresses, womens trousers, costume jewellery, perfume and textiles.

She adopted the name Coco when she was a singer in the years 1905-1908. After setting up her first shop in Paris, she quickly expanded with stores in Deauville and Biarritz.

Soon she expanded to couture and worked with jersey, a first in the French fashion world. In the 1920s her chemise set a trend with its "little boy" look. Her relaxed fashions and short skirts were in sharp contrast to the corset fashions popular in the previous decades. Chanel herself dressed in mannish fashion which other women also found liberating.

In 1922, she introduced her perfume No 5 which is still very popular.Pierre Wertheimer became her partner in the perfume business in 1924. Wertheimer owned 70% of the company with Chanel owning 10% and her friend Bader 20%. The Wertheimers still control the perfume empire today.

Coco introduced her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and her "little black dress" in 1926. Her fashions have a staying power and don't change from year to year or generation to generation.

She was still working in 1971 when she died. Karl Lagerfeld has been chief designer since 1983.